Well 2017 is about to come to a close, which is when everyone starts publishing top-whatever lists of events, products, etc. so I thought why not start one of my own? I have a real affinity for Washington State wines, and I've reviewed a lot of them in 2017, so why not publish a top-10 Washington Wine list? Here are the simple rules: 1) the wine must have been the subject of a blog post in the calendar year; 2) the wine must be from Washington State; 3) the wine must have been rated 9 or higher (there are a lot of wonderful wines that I rated below 9, but I had to narrow this down somehow!). Based on this population, I then chose my top-10, half objectively (i.e. the #1 wine could not have been rated lower than the #10, etc.) and mostly subjectively (i.e. what I liked best). Along with the top-10 wines, I also narrowed down my top-5 Washington producers, based on how many times their wines were rated 9 or above. So without further adieu, here are my top-5 Washington Wine producers based on the number of wines rated 9 or higher in 2017:
#5 Forgeron Cellars
Forgeron is one of those producers that I discovered as a result of a personal recommendation (I think it might have been Julie Titus at Seven Hills when I asked here where I should go tasting downtown sometime back in 2010 or so). Forgeron was started by Marie-Eve Gilla in 2001, who made a name for herself with her wonderful Chardonnay, but I really enjoy her wines made from some of the less used varietals in the Columbia Valley, like Primitivo and Malbec. Forgeron had two wines rated above 9 and both made my top-10 wine list.
#4 Doubleback Winery
Doubleback Winery traces its roots back to 2007 when NFL quarterback and Walla Walla native, Drew Bledsoe retired and planted his estate vineyard, McQueen, on the southern end of the Walla Walla AVA. Since he launched Doubleback in 2008, with collaborator and childhood friend Chris Figgins of Leonetti Cellar, he has produced some world class Cabernet Sauvignon, but has also expanded the winery to include the Bledsoe Family, Flying B and Stolen Horse labels in an effort to produce great wines that are approachable for a broader audience. Doubleback and the related labels had three wines rated at or above 9, one of which made my top-10 list.
#3 Reininger Winery
Reininger Winery has been a long-time favorite of mine, as ever since I first met founder and head winemaker Chuck Reininger, I've felt a wonderful connection in that he approaches the creation of his wines in a way that really matches what I appreciate in Walla Walla wines. From taking broad creative steps with multiple varietals across multiple vintages, such as with his great Desiderata project, he consistently produces eminently drinkable wines that exemplify the true sense of place in the Walla Walla Valley. Reininger and second label Helix had 4 wines rated at or above 9 in 2017 and one of them made my top-10 list.
#2 L'Ecole No. 41
L'Ecole No. 41 was one of the first wineries I visited on my very first trip to Walla Walla back in 2001. At that time the winery in the old schoolhouse was one of the first you encountered as you drove in from the west on US 12. When I first tasted the wines at L'Ecole and neighboring Woodward Canyon, I knew there was something special about the wines of Washington, and particularly Walla Walla. L'Ecole produces some of my favorite Bordeaux style blends in the valley, including the newer Ferguson blend and my all-time favorite blend, the Perigee. L'Ecole had six wines rated at or above 9 in 2017 including one on my top-10 list.
#1 Seven Hills Winery
I will always hold a special place in my heart for the very first wineries I visited on that first trip to Walla Walla back in 2001. On that trip, after visiting the wineries on the outskirts of town on US 12, I came downtown and tasted wine at Seven Hills, which is still in the same location around the corner from Whitehouse Crawford restaurant. Founder and head winemaker, Casey McClellan has done remarkable work in raising the quality and profile of Walla Walla wines, and keeping with the focus on Bordeaux style blends, his Pentad is one of my favorites whenever it's produced (like any great artist, Casey only makes Pentad when all the conditions are right). Seven Hills had seven wines rated 9 or above in 2017, with two wines on my top-10 list.
Other wineries that had wines rated 9 or higher in 2017 include: Maison Bleue Winery, Mark Ryan Winery, Milbrandt Vineyards, Result of a Crush, Sleight of Hand Cellars and Tero Estates.
And now, the top-10 Washington Wines of 2017! (each are linked to the original blog post with summary below).
#10 2014 Maison Bleue Voyageur Syrah
Maison Bleue does such a wonderful job with Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, and since I'm a big fan of Syrah, this one made the list. The 2014 Voyageur Syrah is a deep ruby color in the glass, with just the heft you'd like to see from a nice Syrah. The nose is chock full of violets, blueberry and blackberry overlaid with hints of smoke and black pepper spice. The taste a rush of ripe berries, that transitions nicely to some fresh herbs and chipotle spice midpalate. There is a bit of a reprise of fruit and a bit of kirsch on the finish, with the soft tannins supporting the long, smooth and very dry finish. Rating: 9
#9 2013 Anvil Cabernet Sauvignon Dionysus Vineyard Columbia Valley
Anvil is Forgeron Cellars' higher end label, and they do a wonderful job with Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is the first of two from Forgeron on my top-10 list. The 2013 Anvil Cabernet Sauvignon is a deep inky black color at the center, with bright ruby along the edges, The nose is a wonderful combination of ripe blackberries, currants and a hint of violet floral notes intermingled with some defined spice notes of black pepper over a hint of smoke. The taste is just wonderful with some ripe fruit that submits to some lovely spicy pepper notes at the outset, transitioning nicely to some dark chocolate and dried fruit notes midpalate, as you're set up for a reprise of spicy pepper on the long, smooth and luxurious finish. Rating: 9
#8 2015 Mark Ryan "Little Sister" Columbia Valley Merlot
Mark Ryan has been a growing favorite of mine since I first visited the Walla Walla tasting room back in 2012 (maybe?) and not just because he names his wines after Pearl Jam songs. Yes, I am a flannel-wearing grunge fan of the 1990s, but these are some seriously good wines. The 2015 Little Sister Merlot is a deep, inky purple with bright ruby along the edges. The nose is an intriguing blend of leather, tart cherry, cardamom and baking spice. The taste is classic, old school Merlot with a rush of ripe fruit up front, cherry, currant and plum, that transitions to some interesting notes of buttered popcorn jelly belly midpalate. The finish is smooth, with young tannins providing a bit of punch to the long, smooth and dry finish. This wine is such a pleasure to drink! Rating: 9
#7 2014 Doubleback Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon
Since my first visit to Doubleback a few years ago, I've been impressed with the quality and aging potential of the Cabernet. Now with a broader array of wines at more value conscious price points, I'm finding even more to love. The 2014 Doubleback Cabernet Sauvignon is a deep, inky color at the center, with nice bright garnet along the edges. The nose is a rich combination of blackberry, currant, oak and a bit of kirsch. The taste is a velvelty burst of ripe black fruit, plum, blackberry and cherry that envelops your mouth as the flavors transition to some wonderful earthy, mineral notes of dusty limestone overlaid with mocha and dark chocolate midpalate. The tannins are still youthful, leading to a bit of acidity on the long, smooth and very dry finish. Rating: 9
#6 2014 L'Ecole No. 41 Ferguson
I had the chance to visit the Ferguson Vineyard with L'Ecole founder Marty Clubb back in 2013 (you can see that post
here) and it was fascinating to see some of the underlying characteristics of the vineyard that really express themselves in the wine. The Ferguson blends have been consistently excellent since the inaugural vintage in 2011 (you can see that one
here). The 2014 Ferguson is a deep, inky purple in the glass. The nose is a beautiful combination of leather, blackberry and dusty mineral aromas that really speak to the terroir at Ferguson. The taste is a rush of ripe fruit up front, black cherry, blackberry and plum that transition to some lovely mineral and smoky notes midpalate. The finish is near perfect, with well structured tannins providing the backbone and just a hint of spice and characteristic Bordeaux "funk" coming in at the end of the long, smooth, and very dry finish. Rating: 9
#5 2011 Reininger Cima
As I mentioned above, Chuck Reininger continues to impress with his mastery of blending and he is perhaps one of the most creative winemakers in the Walla Walla Valley today. The 2011 Reininger Cima is a lovely bright ruby in the glass, typical of the Sangiovese in this Washington Super Tuscan. The nose is a symphony of soft leather, graphite and spice box with emerging hints of ripe cherries and rose petals. The taste is surprisingly youthful despite the more than five years this wine spent in barrel, with lovely notes of strawberry, cherry and red plums bursting forth at the outset, only to give way to some lovely notes of black pepper spice and tart cherry midpalate, no doubt a testament to the wonder of Sangiovese. The finish was velvety smooth, as the tannins were mature and expertly integrated to provide a lasting dry finish that begs you to take another sip. Rating: 9
#4 2014 Seven Hills Pentad
Casey McClellan has been doing wonders for Walla Walla wine since Seven Hills was founded back in 1988 and the Pentad is the pinnacle of the Walla Walla Bordeaux style blend for Seven Hills. Casey will only make this wine when conditions are right, so we were lucky to have vintages in 2014 and 2015, but there have only been eight vintages of Pentad prior to 2014! The 2014 Pentad is a deep inky color with bright ruby along the edges, suggestive of the heavy presence of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. The nose is a lovely combination of leather, blackberry, clove and dried spice that welcomes you to take a sip. The taste is wonderfully smooth and balanced, with casual notes of ripe black fruit intermingled with mocha and dark chocolate that transitions to some lovely green herb notes just before the finish. And the finish is lovely, with chewy tannins that make for a long, firm and exceptionally dry finish that lasts a minute or more. This is the first of two wines from Seven Hills in my top-10 list. Rating: 9 - 9.5
#3 2014 Forgeron Malbec
This is the second wine from Forgeron on my top-10 list, and this one makes this list as a true rarity, a wine I really loved, even though it was from a varietal that I don't love. I am not a fan of Malbec, despite it's waning popularity, but this wine is enough to convert even me to being a fan of the varietal. The 2014 Forgeron Malbec is a stunning, deep purple color in the glass, picture perfect for Malbec. The nose is a symphony of aromas that bring you to images of gauchos in the Andes of Argentina, leather, smoke, black cherry and hints of white pepper spice and mocha over the top. The taste is refined and complex, pretty much the opposite of a big, gut punching Cabernet that's so popular among so many today. There is a rush of ripe fruit up front, cherry, pomegranate and currant that transition effortlessly to some notes of peppery dark chocolate midpalate. The finish is just the best part of this wine, with incredibly polished tannins supporting a velvety smooth finish that seems to last the better part of five minutes. Rating: 9 - 9.5
#2 2014 Seven Hills Pepper Bridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
This is the second wine from Seven Hills on my top-10 list, and by far my favorite wine from them in 2017! This was a new wine with incredibly limited production that likely will not be made again, so enjoy it while you can! The 2014 Seven Hills Pepper Bridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a deep, inky purple at the center, with bright ruby along the edges. The nose is a magnetic chorus of leather, cedar, boysenberry and a hint of white pepper that combine to suggest something really special is about to happen to your palate. The taste is an eye opening rush of fruit, with pronounced black cherry that settles in to some more subtle notes of mocha and dark chocolate. The tannins are still young but remarkably smooth and well integrated, providing the perfect backdrop for the long, voluptuous and very dry finish that seems to last a minute or more. Rating: 9.5
#1 2014 Sleight of Hand Cellars "The Psychedelic Syrah"
The best Washington Wine of 2017 in my opinion is one that was a recommendation from someone at another Washington winery. It's impressive to me how much of a community there is among the winemakers of Walla Walla, where everyone can view and enjoy the product of competitors in a way that honors the artistry of winemaking as a whole. So when Julie from Seven Hills recommended this wine to me, I immediately called and ordered some and I wasn't disappointed. The 2014 Psychedelic Syrah is a deep ruby color in the glass. The nose is just an explosion of everything that's great about Syrah, green grass, lavender, green olives, smoke and minerals with lovely undertones of ripe purple fruit. The taste is like nothing I've experienced before, it just takes me right back to the many lovely tasting rooms in Walla Walla, with wild earthy flavors, bursts of ripe cherry, blackberry and blueberry, earthy limestone, licorice and smoke that just give you such a sense of the place that produced this wine. The tannins are elegant, creating a velvety mouthfeel than envelops you creating a long, dry finish that's silky and very memorable. This is appropriately names, as this was a psychedelic experience! Rating 9.5
And there you have it, my first ever top-10 list of Washington wines for 2017. Best wishes for another wonderful year of Washington wine in 2018!
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